Ever wonder what it would be like to travel through India like a maharajah and maharanee? To live the life of luxury from another time, to feast every night, and to witness the vivid spectacle of the subcontinent from a train akin to a moving Taj Mahal? Then hop aboard the Deccan Odyssey India with Karen Tina Harrison and enjoy her colorful travelogue and equally vivid photo tour.
All Aboard for India!
How does a couple intent on romantic travel see a country as vast as India? They can fly from city to city, holing up in luxury accommodations such as the palatial hotels of Rajasthan near the Taj Mahal monument and the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower in Mumbai. Or they can decide to see some of the countryside, because India is so colorful and varied. If that’s their preference, the best way to get around is by train.The bad news is that local trains are crowded and spartan.
The good news is that several luxury trains designed for first-class tourism ply the most fascinating regions of the subcontinent.
Here's the Ticket
My husband Richard and I were determined to visit India, and we were won over by the Deccan Oydssey train.It leads passengers on a week-long adventure through the Maharashtra state, India’s largest and most varied.
The Deccan Oydssey's route, which begins and ends in Mumbai, takes passengers to other noteworthy cities; to Hindu, Buddhist and Catholic holy sites; to the heavenly beaches of the Arabian Sea; and to the European-feeling former Portuguese colony of Goa.
I liked the fact that the train has everything one could want: a dining car serving three restaurant-quality meals a day; a bar car, spa, library, game room, and business center.
Accommodations were ultra-private cabins, some with double beds, and included a butler for every four-cabin car.
Richard and I booked our flights from Newark, New Jersey to Mumbai on Jet Airways, a new Indian-run airline with spanking-clean jets and pampering service.
Day 1: Welcome aboard the Deccan Odyssey
We take a cab to Mumbai’s Victoria Station, where oceans of Indians climb on and off trains whose doors remain open. The Deccan Odyssey has its own waiting room, where we are greeted with a fragrant garland of gardenias and a welcome bottle of ice-cold water.In a few minutes we are escorted onto the spotless, fully air-conditioned train. In our car’s lounge, a small living-room area with windows and a TV, we are met by our private butler, Harish, a smiling character in a crisp, maroon-colored uniform and matching turban.
Our Rolling Home
Harish helps us into our compact but comfortable cabin, done up with a gold paisley bedspread and window curtains. The cabin contains a double bed, a small desktop, a narrow but deep closet, and a decent-sized bathroom with a shower, toilet, sink, and shelves. We need extra storage, and find it under the bed.
As we take in the view through the wide window, children press their faces up to its one-way glass. The train starts its journey, and we watch crowded, lively Mumbai roll by.
We take a slightly lurching walk through several swaying cars to the bar car, which has plush chairs and a bar at one end. We order Kingfisher beers and keep our eyes on the scenery.
I make my way back to our cabin to dress for dinner at eight, leaving Richard in the bar car with another husband. At dinner, I can see several couples like us: the wives have dolled themselves up, and the men are still in their polos and khakis.
Curry, No Hurry
Dining on the Deccan Odyssey loses nothing for being on wheels. The servers are charming young men in form-fitting “warrior dress,” and the food is first-rate.
Every meal gives diners a choice of Western or Indian menus, and they can mix and match. Richard and I love Indian food—in fact, exploring the cuisine was high on our list of “things to do in India.” We were never bored in the Deccan Odyssey’s dining car. Tonight we are served chicken Mughal style, in a creamy, almond-rich sauce laden with tiny peppers.
Day 2: Ganpatipule on the Beach
Harish awakens us with a knock at 7:30am. We make our way to the dining car for a tasty Indian breakfast of, basically, spiced Cream of Wheat.We collect our tote bags from our cabin and step off the train in Ratnagiri, a village noted for its sweet Alphonse mango groves. A festive Indian greeting awaits us, with dancers, musicians, and an audience of townspeople who have gathered to watch…us.
A coach bus takes the Deccan Odyssey passengers to a few points of interest in the area: an observation deck overlooking emerald mountains and azure sea; a crafts market; a mango grove; a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Ganesh, the elephant-headed god; and finally, a beach club in Ganpatipule near Ratnagiri, where we spend the rest of the afternoon.
Four hours speed by. First, there’s a barbecue cooked by the train’s expert chefs. Then there are horse and camel rides on the beach. We can opt to have an ayurvedic facial or massage from a small spa on the premises. But the highlight of the afternoon is simply wading into the Arabian Sea.
Caressing Waves, Better than a Massage
If you think Caribbean water is warm, the Arabian Sea will rock your boat. As you step into the water, there is absolutely no temperature shock whatsoever; the water is not far from body temp, and feels like a luscious bath.
If not for the brutal sun beating down, I’d have splashed in the milky surf all afternoon. But I join Richard on a hammock strung between palm trees and fall asleep.
Everyone else takes a snooze, too. Our group is roused for another activity: a ferry boat ride around ancient Jaigurh Fort. It is now the end of the day, and the glowing orange sunlight is magic hour times ten.
Back on the train, we have time for a quick steam bath in the spa and a shower before supper. Dinner is again delectable, kicking off with chilled Alphonso mango soup, like a fruit gazpacho. Again, we sleep well.
