Richard’s Camp offers a classic Kenya safari experience. There were no signs marking the place. The track, leading through the high tawny oak grass into a thicket, opened onto a large lawn with trees and six large tents set in a semi-circle around it. (Note: the tents here, as in Tortilis, all have ensuite bathrooms.)
Richard’s Camp is simple, elegant, unpretentious. The sitting room, a small building with a tin roof, contains comfortable white sofas and arm chairs and a fireplace. Dinner is either on the verandah or under a tree. There is pizza and pasta, fresh beans and tomatoes, gazpacho and roast chicken and potatoes — all simply done, all simply delicious.
Richard Roberts is a third-generation Kenyan and his family used to farm here. But as part of the effort to conserve the area the wheat field and farm have been turned back to open plains where, once again, wildlife grazes.
Evening Safari
When you enter the camp from the bush at night, you are in a magical land lit by lanterns hung from trees. There is a Victorian bathtub, once used by Barkley Cole, who was immortalized by Isak Denisen (Karen Blixen) in Out of Africa, that awaits bathers outdoors.
We chose an afternoon soak under the wild olive tree, enjoying the tropical sun. At night lanterns and candles are set up. You can look at the stars and watch bushbabies scamper in the trees overhead and listen to the night sounds found only in the African wild – the hoots and laughs of hyenas, the grumble of distant lions and the snorts of a hippo.
On the game drive, we were taken to see the three white rhinos that are guarded day and night to protect them from poachers. Unlike the more excitable black rhinos, these are relatively tame and we were able to approach them on foot. That evening we came across more than a dozen hyenas circling a young lion with its kill.
Eventually the lion decided the numbers weren’t in his favor and he abandoned the meat. Not far from the camp we found two male lions in their prime. They strolled past our Land Rover. Making sure the wind was blowing in the right direction, we got out and watched as the two lions ambled to the distant trees.
Just before sunset, we found a cheetah sitting on the hood of another jeep. From this perch, it searched for its next meal. We put up the top as the rains moved in and later ate to candlelight as water poured from the tin roof.
You can reach Richard’s Camp by scheduled flights on AirKenya at the landing strip ten miles away or by charter flight that takes you straight to the camp.
If game viewing isn’t enough for you, Richard can fly you in his own plane to fly fish in tea country a half hour away or spend a day at Rusinga Island in Lake Victoria where you can try your luck with Nile Perch. The record catch is over 200 pounds.
An additional pleasure at this camp is the warmth and hospitality of Richard and his partner, Liz. They bring you into the bush life, chatting with you at breakfast under a spreading acacia tree or dining with you in the homey sitting room. This is the real thing, with people who love what they do and introduce you on your honeymoon to a lost way of life of simplicity, quiet, and companionship.
