Quebec City Dining
In any part of the old city, it's nearly impossible
to have a bad meal (unless, of course, you order poutine -- French
fries drowned in gravy and topped with flavorless cheese curds).
But you wouldn't do that, would you?
For your dining pleasure, the area boasts a choice of 25 different cuisines. Once you select a restaurant, check the menu for the table d'hote. It's the daily special and often the best deal in the house, providing three courses plus dessert.
A recent dinner at the Victorian-style La Crémaillière overlooking rue Saint-Jean consisted of a pappardelle appetizer, mushroom soup, grilled salmon topped with fried spinach, and mocha cake for dessert. The price for this scrumptious repast, including tax and tip, was around $30 US per person.
If you'd like to sample traditional Québecois cuisine, take a table at Aux Anciens Canadiens (418-692-1627). It's not only the oldest house in the city; it's also a restaurant.
Should you crave something light and inexpensive, repair to La Crêperie, in the shadow of Le Château Frontenac. A wide selection of sweet and savory fillings for crêpes and omelettes make this an easy choice. Cheese, chocolate, and Chinese fondues are also served.
...and Shopping
Well-fortified, it's time to shop. With an exchange rate hovering around $100 US = $140 Canadian, American dollars go far here.
Where to start? From the boutique arcade at Le Château Frontenac (leather goods by Roots, CP Hotels memorabilia)...to Basseville's rue Saint-Jean shops selling CDs, T-shirts, books, shoes, and souvenirs...to original art on sale by the artists along Haute-Ville's rue Trésor, this city is great fun for credit-card carriers.
If you only have a limited time to shop, head for Basseville's Place-Royale (above). Its narrow, winding, cobblestoned streets are filled with unique shops. One where you ought to totally indulge yourselves is Fruits & Passion, a shop at 75, rue du Petit-Champlain that carries bath, body, and home products infused with heavenly fragrances.
Tired of seeing The Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, and other utterly mundane and ubiquitous American brands? Visit Place Laurier in the new part of the city. The largest shopping center in eastern Canada, it contains more than 250 shops that sell French and Canadian brands.
Note: If you can produce a receipt for an eligible item costing a minimum of $50, or a total of eligible items costing at least $200, you may qualify for a tax refund. Visitor tax refund applications are readily available in Québec City, and you can collect a refund in person before leaving Canada or request to have a check mailed to you.
Photographs by Vincent Sardone.
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