Only in San Francisco

Dateline: 05/15/97

Honeymooners, whether sampling California wines and cuisine, shopping
Union Square, or scaling the heights of Nob Hill will find San Francisco
a serene and sophisticated place.

The distinctive skyline, ranging from Transamerica's 853-foot-tall
Pyramid to rows of Victorian-style houses, simultaneously evokes the past
and present. While the hills of San Francisco are intimidating to some
motorists, others revel in the adventure. The area beyond the city limits is
an unequivocal driver's paradise. Vistas off Northern California's coast are
breathtaking, and a two-hour car ride yields views of magnificent cliffs
jutting into the timeless Pacific Ocean.

San Francisco and environs offer the traveler infinite delights for the
senses and the spirit. Make time to explore Golden Gate Park, mountain
bike on Mount Tamalpais, or sip a café espresso while scanning the San
Francisco Chronicle and create some memories to take home.

CITY ATTRACTIONS

Pier 39, Ghirardelli Square, The Cannery, and Fisherman's
Wharf have tourist attractions for first-time visitors. The San Francisco
Tour Guide Guild (753-8600) can help plan an itinerary including these
and other locales. San Francisco's Own Tours (771-6604) offers
customized, private trips via mini-van. Hike San Francisco (469-2012)
leads hardy travelers to new peaks of interest.

To experience San Francisco by sea, phone Let's Go Sailing (788-
4920) or Rendezvous Charters/Spinnaker Sailing (543-7333). The
latter launches sunset and brunch cruises on the bay, set against the
dramatic skyline. The ferry ride and tour of Alcatraz (Pier 41) is a
haunting, fascinating journeyand you'll learn why escape was virtually
impossible. The ferry at Pier 39 carries travelers to Angel Island in the
bay, a lovely refuge. Walkers and kite-flyers will enjoy Golden Gate
Park, which has gardens, lakes, and bridal and walking paths within its
thousand-plus acres that contain the Japanese Tea Garden,
Conservatory of Flowers, and Strybing Arboretum and Botanical
Gardens.

COLORFUL NEIGHBORHOODS

Several districts are worth exploring: Chinatown starts at Bush and Grant
streets: Look for the dragon-draped archway at the intersection. North
Beach, the city's café-rich Italian hub, begins at the north end of
Chinatown; Columbus Avenue's pastries are hard to resist. Pacific
Heights's boutiques and restaurants along Fillmore Street resemble
those on Manhattan's upper west side .

Chestnut St. in the Marina district attracts the young and upwardly
mobile. Marina Green overlooks the Golden Gate Bridge. A bay-side
walkway leads to the bridge, which one can cross by foot. The nearby
Palace of Fine Arts houses the Exploratorium of Science, Art, and
Human Perception.

The 60s are still alive and well in Haight-Ashbury, and the Castro
district is a gay mecca. Well-preserved Victorian houses that survived the
fire after the 1906 earthquake are surrounded by antiques stores, book
shops, bars, and the Castro Theater, known for its eccentric productions.

The area code for San Francisco is 415. East Bay (Oakland and environs)
exchanges begin with 510, and 707 connects callers to numbers in Napa
Valley and Sonoma.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The fine art of San Francisco includes museums and galleries that show
paintings and sculpture as well as cutting-edge installation art.

Ansel Adams Center (495-7000, 250 Fourth St., T-Sun 11 AM-5 PM,
admission $4). The focus is on historic black-and-white and contemporary
photography, and one gallery is exclusively devoted to Adams's pictures.
Asian Art Museum (668-7855, Tea Garden Dr. and Ninth Ave., W-Sun
10 AM-5 PM, admission $5) contains the largest collection of Asian art
outside the continent.
The California Academy of Sciences (750-7145, Golden Gate Park,
daily 10 AM-5 PM, admission $6) houses both the Morrison Planetarium
and the Steinhart Aquarium.
M. H. de Young Memorial Museum (863-3330, same location, hours,
$ as Asian Art Museum) features an extensive collection of American work
from Colonial times to the present.
Mexican Museum (441-0404, Building D, Fort Mason Center, Marina
Blvd. and Buchanan St., W-Sun noon-5 PM, admission $3). Founded in
1975 as the first U.S. museum dedicated to the works of Mexican artists.
Museum of the City of San FranciscoSan Francisco 1906: The
Destruction of the Great City (928-0289, The Cannery, 2801
Leavenworth St., W-Sun 10 AM-4 PM, free admission) features a century-
old array of photos and artifacts.
San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (252-4000, Van Ness Ave.
and McAllister St., Tues-F 10 AM-5 PM, weekends 11 AM-5 PM, admission
$4) has an extensive permanent collection of 20th-century art.
Center for the Arts at Yerba Buena Gardens (978-ARTS , 701
Mission St., at 3rd St., Tues-Sun 11 AM-6 PM, admission $3). This $44-
million cultural complex opened recently and houses three art galleries.

GALLERIES

Animation, USA (362-3878, 222 Sutter St.) specializes in contemporary
and vintage animation art from Disney, Warner Brothers, and Hanna-
Barbera studios.
Artrock Gallery (255-7390, 1153 Mission St.) features the world's
largest selection of rock `n' roll art and sells posters, album covers, and T-
shirts.
Gump's Gallery (982-1616, 250 Post St., above the store). Work by
Thiebaud, Diebenkorn, and Motherwell is displayed in one of Northern
California's oldest continuously operating galleries.
Harcourts Modern and Contemporary Art Gallery (421-3428, 460
Bush St.) exhibits American and European masters: Picasso, Miró, and
Chagall are among them.
Dorothy Weiss Gallery (397-3611, 256 Sutter St.) shows contemporary
crafts and sculptures.

RESTAURANTS

The area that launched California cuisine now boasts more than 3,200
restaurants. While dress rules are not as strict as in New York and
elsewhere, business attire is in fashion at first-class restaurants. RR =
reservations required; RS = reservations suggested.

Aqua (252 California St., 956-9662). Popular with advertising people who
hobnob here, Aqua's signature dish is medallions of ahi (tuna) served with
seared foie gras and a pinot noir sauce. RS.
Bix (56 Gold St., 433-6300). Classic American dishes, such as chicken
hash, are cooked up creatively. RS.
Bistro Roti (155 Steuart St., 495-6500). An elegant yet relaxed
establishment with a fresh seafood bar. House specialties include marinated
and spit-cooked chicken and duck served with garlic mashed potatoes. RS.
Carnelian Room (555 California St., 433-7500). On the 52nd floor of
the Bank of America building, the restaurant serves cuisine exquisite as the
views. Try the black peppercorn fetuccine with crab and spinach. RR.
Chez Panisse (1517 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley, 510-548-5525). The pride
of chef Alice Waters, originator of California cuisine, this informal setting
features a changing, four-course prix-fixe menu. RR.
Fleur De Lys (777 Sutter St., 673-7779). A sophisticated atmosphere and
fine French fare. RR.
Fog City Diner (1300 Battery St. 982-2000). This upscale version of a
classic 50's diner dishes out new American specialties as well as traditional
items. RS.
I Fratelli (1896 Hyde St., 474-8240). One of the best and most reasonably
priced Italian spots around. RS.
Little City Antipasti Bar (673 Union St., 434-2900). A casual meeting
and drinking place to feast on sumptuous Italian treats. Start with the
roasted garlic and brie or eggplant rollatine appetizer.
MacArthur Park (607 Front St., 398-5700). Best ribs in town.
One Market (One Market St., 777-5577). Opened recently, this is one of
chef-author Bradley Ogden's creations. It serves farm-fresh, seasonally
inspired American cuisine. Menu changes daily. RR.
Postrio (545 Post St., 776-7825). A post-modern atmosphere serving po-
mo provender such as ranch quail with a pineapple glaze and spicy greens.
RR.
Scott's Seafood (2400 Lombard St., 563-8988). The ultimate San
Francisco seafood establishment, Scott's offers just about every specialty a
deep-sea diner could fish for. RS.
Stars (150 Redwood Alley, 861-7827). A San Francisco institution known
for its celebrity clientele. RR.
Tommy Toy's Cuisine Chinoise (655 Montgomery St., 397-4888).
Chinese cuisine with a French flair. Ooh-la-la: The 6-course prix-fixe
dinner with Peking duck plus whole lobster with pine nuts. RS.
Trattoria Contadina (1800 Mason St., 982-5728). Acclaimed by the
critics, this family-owned North Beach restaurant gets bravos for its fusilli Pavarotti.
Zuni Cafe (1658 Market St., 552-2522). Satisfies spice-loving
southwestern palates who appreciate a dash of local color. RS.

SHOPPING

Don't let the city's tranquil atmosphere fool you: San Francisco shopping
rivals the best. After all, it's the headquarters for The Gap. So grab your
walking shoes, a jacket or raincoat, a fistful of credit cards and begin
the thrill of the chase.

MALLS...AND MUCH MORE

San Francisco Center (Market and Fourth sts.). This elegant new
attraction features a piano player, marble-and-bronze interior, and spiral
escalators that circle a sunlit atrium amidst nine shopping floors.
Crocker Galleria (50 Post St.). Inspired by Milan's Galleria, this three-
story, domed emporium houses restaurants and specialty stores that include
Versus Gianni Versace and Stephane Kélian shoes.
Embarcadero Center (Clay and Battery to Drumm and Sacramento sts.).
This sprawling center comprises four buildings, each with three tempting
floors that add up to more than 100 stores and 40 restaurants.
The Cannery (Leavenworth and Beach sts.). This former Del Monte
peach-packing plant is now home to street performers, shops, art galleries,
and eateries. Go to sight-see, dine, or simply relax under the shady olive
trees.
Ghirardelli Square (surrounded by North Point, Polk, Beach, and
Larkin sts.). Mecca for chocolate lovers, this 1864 landmark building
contains over 70 shops and eateries. Free daily entertainment on two
outdoor stages. Don't leave without a bar of cocoa-flavored bliss.
Union Square (bounded by Geary, Powell, Post, and Stockton sts.). The
world's grandest specialty stores Saks Fifth Avenue, Cartier, Gump's,
Neiman Marcus, and I. Magnin are concentrated in this four-block area.
Upscale neighbors include North Beach Leather, Polo Ralph Lauren,
Chanel Boutique, Shreve & Co. jewelers, and Brooks Brothers.
Pier 39 (off the Embarcadero). Irresistibly designed to snare tourists, this
waterfront extravaganza overflows with people, snacks, and souvenirs.
Amusements include jugglers, a carousel, and a thrilling turbo ride (adults
$6, children $4). It's a few minutes walk to Fisherman's Wharf, where
the seafood's always fresh and crab's in season through June.
Yerba Buena Square (899 Howard St.) is the city's largest outlet mall.

SHOPS WITH STYLE

Indulge the child within by heading for F.A.O. Schwarz (48 Stockton
St.) or the science-toy-filled Imaginarium (3535 California St.). Both
carry stuff more stimulating than Beavis, Butthead, and Barney. Book
lovers still make the literary hegira to City Lights Bookstore (261
Columbus Ave.), in the center of North Beach. Its magazine and poetry
sections are noteworthy.

Good taste is in store for men at Emporio Armani (1 Grant St.),
Wilkes Bashford (375 Sutter St.), and Bally of Switzerland (238
Stockton St.), all in the Union Square area.
Travelers in search of a new wallet, briefcase, or piece of luggage
can find them at The Coach Store (190 Post St.) and El Portal
Luggage (865 Market St.). Golfers rank T.O.P. Golf (59 Grant
Avenue) and McCaffrey's Golf Shop (80 Sutter Place) above par. Head
for The North Face (180 Post St.) for rugged outdoors paraphernalia.


LATE NIGHT SAN FRANCISCO

After-dark entertainment abounds. Live theater, music, and comedy all
attract San Francisco audiences. Listed below are top-rated jazz and
comedy clubs. Since cabs are hard to find on the streets in the wee hours,
call one before you're ready to go.

COMEDY

Cobb's Comedy Club (2801 Leavenworth St., at the Cannery, 928-
4320) was voted San Francisco's best comedy club by the readers of the
Bay Guardian, a local newspaper.
The Improv (401 Mason St., 441-7787). This stand-up club attracts top-
notch talent.
The Punch Line (444 Battery St., 397-7573). Drawing a 30-something
crowd, the club features both nationally known comedians and local
jokesters.


JAZZ BARS

Kimball's East (5800 Shellmound St., Emeryville, 510-658-2555). Some
of the area's best live jazz wails on this stage.
Lou's Pier 47 Club (300 Jefferson St., 771-0377). In the heart of
Fisherman's Wharf, this little-known watering hole kicks out great jazz,
rhythm `n' blues, and rock.
Mason Street Wine Bar (342 Mason St., 391-3454) offers more than
120 wines and champagnes from California and France, by the glass and by
the bottle. Live jazz and blues play in the intimate setting.
View Lounge (55 Fourth St., downtown Marriott, 896-1600). If
magnificent views entice, come to the 39th floor. View San Francisco and
environs while nursing a drink and listening to the pianist.
Yoshi's (6030 Claremont Ave., Oakland, 652-9200). This top Bay Area
jazz club serves Japanese food and features big-name performers.


VISITORS' PHONE DIRECTORY

To repeat: The area code for San Francisco is 415. East Bay (Oakland and
environs) exchanges begin with 510, and 707 connects callers to numbers
in Napa Valley and Sonoma.

Visitor Information Center: 391-2000, weekdays between 9 AM -5 PM.
Provides maps and information on upcoming activities.
24-hour Recorded Event Line: 391-2001.
Weather Information: 936-1212.
Cellular Rent a Phone: 800-2-ACTION.

TRANSPORTATION

For Drivers
Pay attention to curb colors. Red indicates a no stopping or parking zone.
Yellow or yellow and black denote a half-hour limit on loading for cars
with commercial plates. Green, yellow, and black indicate taxi zones. Blue
is reserved for cars bearing sticker ID driven by the physically challenged.
Green signifies a 10-minute limit. White is a 5-minute limit. Tow away
zones should be taken seriously.

Avis Rent-A-Car: 675 Post St., 885-5011 or 800-331-1212.
Hertz: 433 Mason St., 771-2200 or 800-654-3131.
Alamo: 687 Folsom St., 882-9440 or 800-327-9633.
Budget Rent-A-Car: 321 Mason St., 875-6850 or 800-527-0700
Dollar Rent-A-Car: 364 O'Farrell St. 771-5300 or 800-800-4000
National: 550 O'Farrell Street, 474-5300 or 800-328-4567.
BMW/Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Rental: 495-2774.


Mass Transit
Cable Cars: 673-6764. Cars travel along three routes: The Powell-Hyde
line begins at Powell and Market sts. and ends at Victorian Park. The
Powell-Mason line begins at Powell and Market but terminates at
Fisherman's Wharf. The California-Market line ends at Van Ness Ave.
and California St. One-way fare is $2; riders can purchase tickets on board.
To avoid waiting on long lines, catch a car in mid-route.

BART: 788-BART. High-speed trains to East and South Bay area.
Muni: 673-6864 for bus information.
AMTRAK: 800-872-7245.


Ferries

Red & White Fleet: 546-2700. Daily service to Sausalito, Tiburon, and
Angel Island from Fisherman's Wharf.
Blue & Gold Fleet: 510-552-3300. Daily service to Oakland; mainly a
commuter line.
Golden Gate Ferries: 332-6600. Daily service to Larkspur and
Sausalito.
Hornblower Dining Yachts: 788-8866, ext.7. Brunch, lunch, dinner
and dancing aboard.


LEAVING TOWN

American Express Travel Office: 295 California St., 788-4367.
San Francisco International Airport: 876-7809.


TICKET SOURCES

TIX Bay Area: 433-7827 for half-price, day of performance tickets call
or visit the Stockton St. box office at Union Square.
City Box Office ticket service: 141 Kearny St., 392-4400.
Mr. Ticket service: 2065 Van Ness Ave., 775-3031.
Symphony Box Office at Davies Symphony Hall, 431-5400.

A TASTE OF THE NEARBY TOWNS

While the city's temptations are many, it's worth setting aside time to visit
other Bay Area destinations. Sausalito can be reached either by car or
Red & White Fleet ferries (546-2700), which leave from Piers 41 and
43 1/2. With its high-priced gift and craft shops, the town's too touristy for
some yet its charm is undeniable when strolling along the bay or
browsing through the tiny shops. For a tasty meal, try The Chart House or
Alta Mira.

Similar to Sausalito but smaller, Tiburon bustles with visitors and
San Franciscans alike. Popular eating and drinking places include Guaymas
and Christopher's. Both have an outdoor patio that overlooks the city, the
bay, and the Golden Gate Bridge.

For those with a thirst to explore wine country, head north to either
Sonoma or Napa Valley, an hour's drive from San Francisco. The Napa
Valley Wine Train (707-253-2111) weaves through scenic Napa Valley
in about three hours' time. Grape Expeditions (707-433-9247) and
Wine Adventures, Inc. (707-257-0353) organize customized tours of
the area for oenophiles. To explore Napa Valley and Sonoma by air, call
Balloons above the Valley (707-253-2222) or American Balloon
Adventures (707-944-8117), which give narrated tours. For Napa Valley
information, call 707-226-7455. The number in Sonoma is 707-575-1191.

Vineyard tastings of red and white wines are mostly free, but there's
often a charge for a bit of the bubbly. Domaine Chandon produces
methode champenoise sparkling wines, and the tour includes the vintner's
restaurant and lush outdoor garden. Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves
is a Spanish-style complex with a garden patio.

Recommended wineries for reds and whites include Clos Du Val
Wine Co., Ltd., where award-winning cabernet sauvignons, merlots,
zinfandels, pinot noirs, and chardonnays are produced. Inglenook Napa
Valley is a treat for the eyes as well as the taste buds: Tastings are held in
a classic stone chateau built a century ago. Simi Winery has been making
wine from Alexander Valley grapes for more than 100 years; tours and
tastings are available.

Beyond the wineries, there's Calistoga, approximately 10 miles
north of Napa. The town's claim to fame is its revitalizing hot springs and
mud baths. As a side attraction, Calistoga is the home of the Old Faithful,
the geyser that spurts 60 feet into the air just about every hour.

A haven for nature lovers, Muir Woods National Monument
(388-2595), an hour north of the city, comprises 560 acres of towering
redwoods, some a thousand years old. One of the most spectacular coastal
communities in northern California, Point Reyes National Seashore,
less than two hours from the city, is a favorite destination for hikers. In
season (December and January are prime months), whale-watching ships
set off from Point Reyes for the deep Pacific.

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